RED CABBAGE & FENNEL SLAW WITH TOASTED PISTACHIOS & TANGY MUSTARD DRESSING

For a long time I didn’t know how to explain my sensibility with food.  I always loved to cook, but I never considered myself a “food person” until my health issues began.  From then on, I was on a rather dismal quest to find things that didn’t make me ill.  I tried a million diets which kept me constantly trying new vegetables, weird ingredients - looking for the few things in the market that were “free” of all the things I needed.  My love for food didn’t start from a rich family or cultural history, but as a result of chronic pain.  Limitation has always been my menu.

Although I’ve had periods of “indulgence” - wanting to cook / eat / bake everything I never had (or could eat) - I always come back to a sensibility that can only be described as Californian (where I’m from).  I relate to avocado, to any kind of sprout, and basically anything that can be described as “1970’s Topanga Canyon vegetarian”.  I would self describe it as hippie food with a bit of culinary curiosity.  

And it’s what I always come back to that helped me understand who I was.  I’ve been having some stomach issues lately that have left me craving comfort.  What I seem to grab in these occasions, when I’m looking for something healing rather than “good”, is always something simple in a bowl. It could be some vegetables, a grain, maybe some avocado.  Usually arugula (my favorite green, especially when my digestion is off).  It’s my own version of comfort food; simple meals that feel like “home”.

California Red Cabbage & Fennel Slaw (gluten-free, vegan) serves 4

  • 4 cups shredded red cabbage
  • 1 cup sliced fennel, thin on mandolin
  • 3-4 radishes, sliced thin on mandolin
  • 1/2 cup roughly chopped fresh basil
  • 1/4 cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 1/4 cup sliced chives
  • 1 lemon, juiced
  • 1/3 cup pistachios, toasted and roughly chopped
  • Fennel fronds, to serve

dressing:

  • 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon white vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons whole grain mustard
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1/2 lemon, juice
  • About 1/4 cup olive oil
  • Sea salt, to taste
  • Freshly ground pepper

In a large bowl, mix together cabbage, fennel, radishes and all herbs.  Squeeze over the juice of one lemon and toss to combine.  Set aside.    

To toast pistachios, add to a skillet and toast over medium heat until browned or add to a baking sheet and bake at 300 degrees until browned and smelling nutty (about 10-12 minutes).

To make the dressing, whisk together all ingredients until emulsified (until it’s a thick, cohesive dressing).  

Add the dressing to the bowl of "slaw" and toss together until well combined.  Season with flaky sea salt, freshly ground pepper and top with pistachios and fennel fronds  Optional toppings: baked tofu, avocado or sprouts ;)

*For simple baked tofu, I add 1 inch slabs to a foil-lined baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil and tamari. Bake at 400 for 20 minutes, flip and bake another 15-20 or until browned and tender.  Season with sea salt  & freshly cracked pepper.

SUMMER CORN & HEIRLOOM SALAD WITH SPICY BREADCRUMBS, GOAT CHEESE & TOMATILLO SALSA VERDE

It's been a busy Summer in terms of cooking.  I have not missed a weekend at the farmer's market & have been chasing heirloom tomatoes along with every single kind of seasonal fruit.  I can say I've pretty much been subsisting on those two food groups exclusively.

For New Yorkers, it's a real luxury to have this much amazing food in season at one time.  I try to explain to my family in California, but they just don't understand.  "There's such a buzz in the air! Everyone is so happy about tomatoes!" We definitely couldn't handle this all year round, it's true.

Besides eating plums standing up in my kitchen, I've mostly been assembling random salads all Summer long.  Since I was raised in Southern California, I have very little food heritage except maybe sprouts on sandwiches and mexican food all day/everyday.  So for me, putting salsa verde on basically a panzanella, is not weird at all.  I highly suggest it - it's my favorite end-of-Summer salad.

SUMMER CORN & HEIRLOOM SALAD WITH SPICY BREADCRUMBS, GOAT CHEESE & TOMATILLO SALSA VERDE (Gluten-free)

This salsa recipe will make a ton & I suggest you put it on anything and everything.  Tacos, hippie bowls, eggs, etc.  You'll thank me later!

Tomatillo Salsa Verde:

  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 lb. tomatillos, de-husked
  • 1 small sweet onion, halved
  • 1 teaspoon olive oil
  • 1-2 limes
  • 4 scallion stalks, roughly chopped
  • 2 jalapeños, de-seeded optional
  • 1 small bunch of cilantro leaves (about 1/3 cup)
  • 1 teaspoon honey, optional.

Salad:

  • 5-6 slices gluten-free bread, cubed
  • 1-2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
  • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 4 ears of corn
  • 6 oz. heirloom tomatoes, sliced
  • 4 radishes, shaved
  • 1 small bunch of chives, chopped
  • 4 oz. goat cheese
  • Sea salt, to taste
  • Freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Add garlic, tomatillos and onion to a sheet pan with a drizzle of olive oil.  Roast for 25-30 minutes or until tomatillos are softened.  Set aside to cool.

Once roasted vegetables have cooled a bit, add to a food processor with lime juice, scallions, jalapeño, cilantro & honey.  Blend until smooth & well-combined.  Set aside.

Use the same sheet pan (wipe down if messy) and toss bread cubes with olive oil, smoked paprika, cayenne, salt & pepper (to taste).  Toast in the oven for 25-30 minutes or until golden brown and extra toasty (not at all soft).

While bread toasts, add husked corn to a large pot.  Bring to a boil, and cook for 2-3 minutes or until corn becomes yellow and tender.  Remove with tongs & add to a colander. Rinse with cold water & set aside to cool.

Once corn has cooled, slice kernels off the cob & add to a platter or serving bowl.  Add sliced heirloom tomatoes, radish, chives & a few hunks of goat cheese.  Season to taste.  Grab a handful of toasted bread cubes & crumble them in your hands over the dish (and leave some cubed, for texture).  Top with tomatillo salsa verde & serve immediately!

A VERY VOGUE THANKSGIVING

It's easy to get overwhelmed by the entertaining aspect of Thanksgiving as a holiday, but also just plainly: what exactly to serve.  Everyone has their own long-standing traditions (marshmallows y/n?) and now, probably some food allergies thrown into the mix. The Hemsley ladies have featured 8 recipes on Vogue that are naturally gluten AND grain free, not to mention a nice mix of vegetarian and meat-starring recipes.  

I had the pleasure of shooting and styling them for a special Hemsley-centric Thanksgiving.  One of my favorite recipes, a real showstopper, is the beet and goat cheese terrine (featured below!).  Unless you're vegan (or hate beets), you can eat and enjoy it.  Not only is it completely gorgeous, but it's delicious alone/with crackers/etc. - so, it will surely keep your guests busy while you're wrestling your turkey.  Happy cooking ;) 

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BEET & GOAT CHEESE TERRINE (Gluten-free, grain-free) from The Art of Eating Well

  • 4 purple beets, about 10 ½ oz
  • 4 golden or any other color beets, about 10 ½ oz (the more colors the better)
  • 2 Tbsp freshly snipped chives
  • 2 Tbsp freshly chopped parsley
  • 1 Tbsp dried oregano
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely grated
  • 14 oz goats’ cheese
  • sea salt and black pepper

Line a 4 x 8 inch loaf tin with parchment paper, leaving enough paper hanging over that you can easily cover the terrine when the tin is full.

Scrub the beet, then place in a pan, cover with water, pop on the lid, and cook for about 30–40 minutes until tender. Set aside to cool, then peel.

Meanwhile, mix all the herbs and garlic with the goats’ cheese in a bowl and season to taste.  Slice the cooked beets into various thicknesses – some 1⁄8 inch, some 1⁄4 inch.

Put a layer of golden or candy-colored beets along the bottom of the tin, followed by a thin layer of the garlic and herb goats’ cheese mix. Do this for 6 layers of each, so you have 12 layers in total, and then start on the purple beets and cheese layers until you reach the top. If you have more colors, vary them as you go along.

Pull the parchment paper over so all the terrine is covered. Place a weight on top of the tin and leave in the fridge overnight or for 8 hours to set.

Cover the set terrine with a plate and turn upside down to remove the terrine. Slice and serve or refrigerate the terrine until needed.